I started exploring makeup at an extremely young age. I began dance classes at the age of three and my favorite part was the makeup I got to wear during the recital. What started as just a bit of blush, shadow, and bright red lips transformed into much more. As I got older, I began competing in dance as well as participating in theatrical and musical performances. With this came more and more opportunities to wear makeup. I had to learn to contour my face and body with makeup so that my features wouldn't disappear under bright theatrical lighting. It wasn't until about 5 years ago that I realized that these makeup tricks could (and sometimes should) be applied to daily makeup looks.
And that's what brings me to today's post on contouring. It is a magical technique that when done correctly allows you to completely transform your face. So let's just jump right into it!
I know I look a little bit crazy in a few of these because I had done my eyeshadow but that's it. I always do my eyeshadow before any face makeup. This way if you have any shadow fallout, you can simply brush it away without effecting anything else.
And that's what brings me to today's post on contouring. It is a magical technique that when done correctly allows you to completely transform your face. So let's just jump right into it!
I know I look a little bit crazy in a few of these because I had done my eyeshadow but that's it. I always do my eyeshadow before any face makeup. This way if you have any shadow fallout, you can simply brush it away without effecting anything else.
Step 1: Prime
I always begin by priming my face. This helps to smooth out the large pores on and around my nose and creates the perfect surface for the products to adhere to.
Step 2: Foundation
Next up is to apply your favorite foundation. I prefer liquid or cream formulas especially when contouring because it makes blending a lot easier.
Step 3: Conceal/Highlight
And now we start to contour. I like to use a concealer that is a few shades lighter than my skin (I was all out so I had to use my regular shade). I begin applying by creating a line from my tear duct to just below my nostril. Then I draw the line out and upwards toward my temple, creating a triangular shape and filling it in with concealer. I then dampen a beauty blender sponge with Mac Cosmetics Fix Plus spray and use gentle pressing or dabbing motions to blend the concealer in that under eye triangle. I then take the concealer down the center of my face (forehead, nose, upper lip, and chin) with the same sponge.
Next I take a highlighting liquid and apply it in the same formation as I did the concealer and blend with the damp sponge. I carry this product through the center of my face as well. This step is optional but adds a bit of extra light reflection that most concealers don't provide.
Finally, I set the under eye area with a translucent powder to prevent creasing.
Next I take a highlighting liquid and apply it in the same formation as I did the concealer and blend with the damp sponge. I carry this product through the center of my face as well. This step is optional but adds a bit of extra light reflection that most concealers don't provide.
Finally, I set the under eye area with a translucent powder to prevent creasing.
Step 4: Contour
Now we need to go in and create dimension and definition in the face by applying our contour. I tend to begin with my cheekbones but you can really start anywhere you'd like. For the cheekbones, it is important to first identify where you need to apply this darker shade. If you feel the area where the top of your ear connects to your face, you should feel a pretty distinct indent about an inch below your temple. Beginning from that point, you want to create a line inwards toward the outer corner of your mouth. Do not bring the line all the way in. You should stop about halfway to three quarters of the way between the ear and mouth. It is better to create this line higher rather than lower on the face if you are unsure of placement as it will ensure that your cheekbones appear lifted.
Next up is the nose. Using a thin brush (think pencil or smudger brush), apply two thin lines down the sides of the bridge of your nose and bringing it into a u shape at the tip of the nose. This will create a thin defined nose. I apply a bit to the high point on my nose (where it bumps out) because I want to create the illusion of a smaller bridge of my nose.
Then comes the forehead. I apply a small amount of my contour shade to the highest and outermost corners of my forehead and blend that only slightly downwards and inwards.
Finally is the jawline. I feel like most people forget this step but it makes such a huge difference. Starting behind my earlobe, right where my jawbone starts, I follow the natural shape of my jawbone. This creates a stronger and more defined jawline and helps to slim the upper neckline.
Finally, I go in with a clean brush and buff out the contours until there are no sharp lines. When you are blending, make sure you are going up and out in small circular motions. Blending down and inwards will drags your features down and make you look more tired and saggy (not a good look).
Next up is the nose. Using a thin brush (think pencil or smudger brush), apply two thin lines down the sides of the bridge of your nose and bringing it into a u shape at the tip of the nose. This will create a thin defined nose. I apply a bit to the high point on my nose (where it bumps out) because I want to create the illusion of a smaller bridge of my nose.
Then comes the forehead. I apply a small amount of my contour shade to the highest and outermost corners of my forehead and blend that only slightly downwards and inwards.
Finally is the jawline. I feel like most people forget this step but it makes such a huge difference. Starting behind my earlobe, right where my jawbone starts, I follow the natural shape of my jawbone. This creates a stronger and more defined jawline and helps to slim the upper neckline.
Finally, I go in with a clean brush and buff out the contours until there are no sharp lines. When you are blending, make sure you are going up and out in small circular motions. Blending down and inwards will drags your features down and make you look more tired and saggy (not a good look).
Step 5: Define
This step is optional but I fend that it makes a big difference. I go back in with my highlighter (or concealer) and create a thin line underneath my cheekbone contour to sharpen the look. Then once I am satisfied, I go in with blush. I place the blush only slightly on top of the cheekbone contour and blend it upwards toward the under eye highlight. Finally, I set it all with a translucent powder or setting spray.
Final Look!
So there you have it! The basics of contouring. I am hoping to do a more in depth post on this where I will show you how to enhance/diminish various features as well as how to contour for your face shape. Below I am going to post a gallery of the products I used as well as photos that I feel show off the contouring that was done. All of the pictures from todays post were created once again by the amazing Nicola Richard. We have some awesome creative ideas coming up so stay tuned for that!
Hope you enjoyed and feel free to post any questions or comments below. Also, don't forget to follow me on Instagram @lg.confessionsofacosmetologist
Thanks!
Hope you enjoyed and feel free to post any questions or comments below. Also, don't forget to follow me on Instagram @lg.confessionsofacosmetologist
Thanks!